Gimbal Project: Difference between revisions

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made from a 7" long piece of 3/4" EMT that has had two holes and a notch cut in  
made from a 7" long piece of 3/4" EMT that has had two holes and a notch cut in  
the bottom.<br/>
the bottom.<br/>
<br/>A PDF file of the part drawing is available: [[:file:stick_stub.pdf]] The completed stick  
<br/>A PDF file of the part drawing is available: [[media:stick_stub.pdf]] The completed stick  
stub should look like this:<br/>
stub should look like this:<br/>
<br/>
<br/>
[[file:stick_stub.png]]<br/>
[[file:stick_stub.png]]<br/>


<br/>The stick stub is just that - a stub.&nbsp; Your flight grip and lower stick  
<br/>The stick stub is just that - a stub. Your flight grip and lower stick  
or &quot;stick box&quot; will attach to this using another 3/4&quot; EMT mating connector.&nbsp;
or &quot;stick box&quot; will attach to this using another 3/4" EMT mating connector.
The stick stub also provides the mechanical interconnect for the roll and pitch  
The stick stub also provides the mechanical interconnect for the roll and pitch  
axes.<br/>
axes.<br/>
<br/>The next part is the roll axis actuator rod.&nbsp; This is just a fancy name  
<br/>The next part is the roll axis actuator rod.&nbsp; This is just a fancy name  
for a 6.75&quot; long bit of 1/4&quot; steel rod that you&#39;ve flatted on one end and  
for a 6.75&quot; long bit of 1/4&quot; steel rod that you&#39;ve flatted on one end and  
threaded on the other.&nbsp; It looks like this:</p>
threaded on the other.&nbsp; It looks like this:<br/>
 
<br/>
<p>
[[file:roll_axis_acutator_rod.png]]<br/>
<img alt="Roll axis actuator rod" src="roll_axis_acutator_rod.png" width="640" height="491" /></p>
<br/>[[medial:roll_axis_actuator_rod.pdf]]Here is a PDF file that shows the  
<p><a href="roll_axis_actuator_rod.pdf">Here</a> is a PDF file that shows the  
details of making the rod.&nbsp; The hole is sized for a #10 screw.&nbsp; When  
details of making the rod.&nbsp; The hole is sized for a #10 screw.&nbsp; When  
installed, it looks like this:</p>
installed, it looks like this:<br/>
<p>
<br/>
<img alt="roll axis actuator in the installed position" src="roll_actuator_installed.png" width="640" height="491" /></p>
[[file:roll_actuator_installed.png]]<br/>
<p>The screw is not shown.&nbsp; The attachment will take bit of experimenting  
<br/>The screw is not shown.&nbsp; The attachment will take bit of experimenting  
with to get it centered in the stick stub.&nbsp; You want a #10 screw that&#39;s  
with to get it centered in the stick stub.&nbsp; You want a #10 screw that&#39;s  
about 1-1/4&quot; long&nbsp; You&#39;ll use a &quot;stop-nut&quot; which is basically a regular nut  
about 1-1/4&quot; long&nbsp; You&#39;ll use a &quot;stop-nut&quot; which is basically a regular nut  
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tighten the screw down enough to take the slop out, but not enough to bind up  
tighten the screw down enough to take the slop out, but not enough to bind up  
the mechanism.&nbsp; Stop-nuts allow this - the nylon ring ensures that they  
the mechanism.&nbsp; Stop-nuts allow this - the nylon ring ensures that they  
won&#39;t loosen over time.</p>
won&#39;t loosen over time.<br/>
 
<br/>
<p>
[[file:roll_axis_pushrod_connection.jpg]]<br/>
<img alt="Roll axis pushrod connection detail" src="roll_axis_pushrod_connection.jpg" width="640" height="426" /></p>
<br/>To center the rod in the stick stub, you&#39;ll need to get two #10 nylon washers  
<p>To center the rod in the stick stub, you&#39;ll need to get two #10 nylon washers  
and a few #10 zinc washers.&nbsp; Place the nylon washers on the &quot;outside&quot; of  
and a few #10 zinc washers.&nbsp; Place the nylon washers on the &quot;outside&quot; of  
the stack.&nbsp; They&#39;ll be the washers that will rub on the inside of the stick  
the stack.&nbsp; They&#39;ll be the washers that will rub on the inside of the stick  
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rubbing against the inside wall of the stick stub.&nbsp; Take the metal washers  
rubbing against the inside wall of the stick stub.&nbsp; Take the metal washers  
and stack them on either side of the rod until you&#39;ve got the right number on  
and stack them on either side of the rod until you&#39;ve got the right number on  
each side that gives the closest to center fit.</p>
each side that gives the closest to center fit.<br/>


<p>The clevis fork is made by taking a 1/4&quot; extruded aluminum turnbuckle and  
<br/>The clevis fork is made by taking a 1/4&quot; extruded aluminum turnbuckle and  
cutting off the left-hand threaded end.&nbsp; You then drill a hole that&#39;s the  
cutting off the left-hand threaded end.&nbsp; You then drill a hole that&#39;s the  
appropriate size for the bolt you&#39;re going to use.&nbsp; In my case the holes  
appropriate size for the bolt you&#39;re going to use.&nbsp; In my case the holes  
were drilled for 1/4&quot; and #10 bolts (not on the same clevis).</p>
were drilled for 1/4&quot; and #10 bolts (not on the same clevis).<br/>
<p>
<br/>
<img alt="Clevis fork made from a turnbuckle" src="clevis_fork.png" width="640" height="426" /></p>
[[file:clevis_fork.png]]<br/>
<p>Next up, making the wooden bearing blocks for the gimbal...</p>
<br/>Next up, making the wooden bearing blocks for the gimbal...<br/>
<p>First, you&#39;re going to need to download the drawing for the bearing parts.</p>
<br/>First, you&#39;re going to need to download the drawing for the bearing parts.<br/>


<p><a href="pitch%20axis%20bearing%20drawing.dxf">pitch axis bearing drawing.dxf</a>
<br/>[[media:pitch%20axis%20bearing%20drawing.dxf]] pitch axis bearing drawing.dxf
- This drawing was saved in AutoCAD 2004 DXF format.&nbsp; You shouldn&#39;t have  
- This drawing was saved in AutoCAD 2004 DXF format.&nbsp; You shouldn&#39;t have  
any problems reading it using any of the freely available CAD programs, you can  
any problems reading it using any of the freely available CAD programs, you can  
download a PDF of the plan
download a PDF of the plan [[media:pitch%20axis%20bearing%20drawing.pdf]]<br/>
<a target="_blank" href="pitch%20axis%20bearing%20drawing.pdf">here</a>.&nbsp;
The drawing will print full size on a single 11x17 sheet.&nbsp; <br/>
The drawing will print full size on a single 11x17 sheet.&nbsp; </p>
<br/>The blocks are made from 5/8&quot; Birch plywood.&nbsp; However, any good quality  
<p>The blocks are made from 5/8&quot; Birch plywood.&nbsp; However, any good quality  
5/8&quot; (or close) plywood will work.<br/>
5/8&quot; (or close) plywood will work.</p>


<p>Please take your time cutting out the bearing blocks.&nbsp; </p>
<br/>Please take your time cutting out the bearing blocks.&nbsp; <br/>
<p>Here are some recommendations that should help you get a more accurate  
<br/>Here are some recommendations that should help you get a more accurate  
result:</p>
result:<br/>
<ul>
<br/>
<li>When drilling the three mounting holes in the bearing base, it would be  
* When drilling the three mounting holes in the bearing base, it would be  
a good idea to drill both parts at the same time to ensure that the holes  
a good idea to drill both parts at the same time to ensure that the holes  
are placed identically in both parts.&nbsp; The bearings must be square and  
are placed identically in both parts.&nbsp; The bearings must be square and  
aligned to one another or the pitch axis bearing shaft will bind.</li>
aligned to one another or the pitch axis bearing shaft will bind.
<li>When creating the parts with the bearing holes in them, it is far safer  
 
* When creating the parts with the bearing holes in them, it is far safer  
and more accurate to drill all the small holes and the two large holes&nbsp;
and more accurate to drill all the small holes and the two large holes&nbsp;
<em>before </em>you cut the parts to shape.&nbsp; Trust me, you don&#39;t want  
<em>before </em>you cut the parts to shape.&nbsp; Trust me, you don&#39;t want  
to be boring a near 1&quot; diameter hole in a part with nearly no material to  
to be boring a near 1&quot; diameter hole in a part with nearly no material to  
hang on to while the drill does its job. :)</li>
hang on to while the drill does its job. :)


<li>The large bearing holes are specified at .95&quot;.&nbsp; The easiest way to  
* The large bearing holes are specified at .95&quot;.&nbsp; The easiest way to  
reach that size is to use a 7/8&quot; Forstner or Spade bit.&nbsp; This will get  
reach that size is to use a 7/8&quot; Forstner or Spade bit.&nbsp; This will get  
you to .875&quot;&nbsp; The remainder can be sanded away with a small drum sander  
you to .875&quot;&nbsp; The remainder can be sanded away with a small drum sander  
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to the point where they&#39;re just a little bit loose around the 3/4&quot; EMT  
to the point where they&#39;re just a little bit loose around the 3/4&quot; EMT  
conduit that makes up the pitch axis bearing.&nbsp; Make sure that when  
conduit that makes up the pitch axis bearing.&nbsp; Make sure that when  
you&#39;re sanding the parts to shape, you do them in assembled pairs.</li>
you&#39;re sanding the parts to shape, you do them in assembled pairs.


<li>If you&#39;d rather not sand the holes to size, you can still get good  
* If you&#39;d rather not sand the holes to size, you can still get good  
results by boring a 1&quot; diameter hole instead of a .95&quot; hole.&nbsp; The fit  
results by boring a 1&quot; diameter hole instead of a .95&quot; hole.&nbsp; The fit  
will only be a tiny bit looser than what I&#39;ve specified and it won&#39;t affect  
will only be a tiny bit looser than what I&#39;ve specified and it won&#39;t affect  
how the gimbal operates.</li>
how the gimbal operates.
</ul>
<p>Here is an exploded illustration that shows you how the pitch axis bearings
are assembled:</p>
<p>
<img alt="Exploded illustraition of the Pitch Axis Bearing" src="pab_exploded.jpg" width="677" height="486" /></p>


<p>The bearing is assembled using three 1-3/4&quot; #10 pan head screws and three #10  
<br/>Here is an exploded illustration that shows you how the pitch axis bearings
are assembled:<br/>
<br/>
[[file:pab_exploded.jpg]]<br/>
 
<br/>The bearing is assembled using three 1-3/4&quot; #10 pan head screws and three #10  
nylon ringed stop-nuts.&nbsp; It&#39;s important that you don&#39;t use any washers on  
nylon ringed stop-nuts.&nbsp; It&#39;s important that you don&#39;t use any washers on  
this because the washers will actually rub on the bearing shaft when it&#39;s  
this because the washers will actually rub on the bearing shaft when it&#39;s  
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your bearing block layout, you&#39;ll also want to mark out the space needed to  
your bearing block layout, you&#39;ll also want to mark out the space needed to  
allow the gimbal box to protrude up through the cockpit floor.&nbsp; In my  
allow the gimbal box to protrude up through the cockpit floor.&nbsp; In my  
version I&#39;m using a hole that&#39;s 5-1/2&quot; wide and 5-1/4&quot; high.</p>
version I&#39;m using a hole that&#39;s 5-1/2&quot; wide and 5-1/4&quot; high.<br/>


<p>You&#39;ll now want to make the pitch axis bearings.&nbsp; They consist of two  
<br/>You&#39;ll now want to make the pitch axis bearings.&nbsp; They consist of two  
short lengths of 3/4&quot; EMT conduit cut to a length that will allow them to fully  
short lengths of 3/4&quot; EMT conduit cut to a length that will allow them to fully  
seat in the EMT mating connectors on the gimbal box and extend at least two  
seat in the EMT mating connectors on the gimbal box and extend at least two  
inches on the pitch actuator side and about 1/2&quot; on the roll axis actuator side.&nbsp;  
inches on the pitch actuator side and about 1/2&quot; on the roll axis actuator side.&nbsp;  
Below are examples that show you roughly how it should look.</p>
Below are examples that show you roughly how it should look.<br/>
<p>Pitch axis connection end:</p>
<br/>Pitch axis connection end:<br/>
<p><img src="pitch_axis_bearing_detail.jpg" width="640" height="426" /></p>
<br/>[[file:pitch_axis_bearing_detail.jpg]]<br/>
<p>You&#39;ll note here how the centering rod for the pitch axis is mounted to the  
<br/>You&#39;ll note here how the centering rod for the pitch axis is mounted to the  
bearing.&nbsp; I&#39;m using a #8 eye bolt that has a locknut on both sides to hold  
bearing.&nbsp; I&#39;m using a #8 eye bolt that has a locknut on both sides to hold  
it in place.&nbsp; I chose a #8 because the eye is perfectly sized for a 1/4&quot;  
it in place.&nbsp; I chose a #8 because the eye is perfectly sized for a 1/4&quot;  
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chose are threaded and have a long enough reach for them to be able to pass  
chose are threaded and have a long enough reach for them to be able to pass  
through the side of the clevis fork.&nbsp; You can see the nut for the ball on  
through the side of the clevis fork.&nbsp; You can see the nut for the ball on  
the inside.</p>
the inside.<br/>
<p>Roll axis connection end:</p>
<br/>Roll axis connection end:<br/>
<p>
<br/>
<img src="roll_axis_pushrod_and_center_interconnect.jpg" width="640" height="426" /></p>
[[file:roll_axis_pushrod_and_center_interconnect.jpg]]<br/>
<p>Here you can see why the roll axis side of the pitch axis bearing needs to be  
<br/>Here you can see why the roll axis side of the pitch axis bearing needs to be  
so short.&nbsp; When you move the stick to the far left, the back end of the  
so short.&nbsp; When you move the stick to the far left, the back end of the  
clevis fork can&#39;t come in contact with the bearing tube.</p>
clevis fork can&#39;t come in contact with the bearing tube.<br/>


<p>You can also see the roll axis potentiometer connection.&nbsp; Just like on  
<br/>You can also see the roll axis potentiometer connection.&nbsp; Just like on  
the pitch axis, I&#39;m using a Du-Bro ball-link on the clevis end, and a Du-Bro E/Z  
the pitch axis, I&#39;m using a Du-Bro ball-link on the clevis end, and a Du-Bro E/Z  
Connector on the potentiometer end.&nbsp; This is a very simple and very  
Connector on the potentiometer end.&nbsp; This is a very simple and very  
reliable way to connect your axis pots to your stick gimbal.</p>
reliable way to connect your axis pots to your stick gimbal.<br/>
<p>The last component I&#39;m going to cover is the centering mechanism.</p>
<br/>The last component I&#39;m going to cover is the centering mechanism.<br/>
<p>The centering mech is very simple.&nbsp; It consists of a 1/4&quot; steel rod  
<br/>The centering mech is very simple.&nbsp; It consists of a 1/4&quot; steel rod  
that&#39;s been threaded on one end, a clevis fork made from a turnbuckle, a pair of  
that&#39;s been threaded on one end, a clevis fork made from a turnbuckle, a pair of  
springs and some locking collars.</p>
springs and some locking collars.<br/>


<p>In my design the steel rod is 10&quot; long.&nbsp; Your application may and  
<br/>In my design the steel rod is 10&quot; long.&nbsp; Your application may and  
probably will vary.&nbsp; Here&#39;s a picture of the assembly:</p>
probably will vary.&nbsp; Here&#39;s a picture of the assembly:<br/>
<p>
<br/>
<img alt="Roll axis centering mechanism and pot connection" src="roll_axis_centering_and_pot.jpg" width="640" height="426" /></p>
[[file:roll_axis_centering_and_pot.jpg]]<br/>
<p>As you can see, the whole thing is very simple.&nbsp; A 1x1 L bracket is  
<br/>As you can see, the whole thing is very simple.&nbsp; A 1x1 L bracket is  
bolted in place and has a 5/16&quot; hole to allow the rod to pass through it.&nbsp;  
bolted in place and has a 5/16&quot; hole to allow the rod to pass through it.&nbsp;  


A collar on either end holds the spring in place.&nbsp; The springs are  
A collar on either end holds the spring in place.&nbsp; The springs are  
compressed against the center bracket just slightly.&nbsp; This provides good  
compressed against the center bracket just slightly.&nbsp; This provides good  
centering force for the gimbal. </p>
centering force for the gimbal. <br/>
<p>One option you may want to consider is using two spring pairs.&nbsp; If you  
<br/>One option you may want to consider is using two spring pairs.&nbsp; If you  
stack a lighter spring atop a heavier spring, your gimbal will have light force  
stack a lighter spring atop a heavier spring, your gimbal will have light force  
around the center and it will increase as you move the controls.&nbsp; This  
around the center and it will increase as you move the controls.&nbsp; This  
happens because small movements around the center only compress the light  
happens because small movements around the center only compress the light  
spring, while movements toward the travel ranges compresses both the light and  
spring, while movements toward the travel ranges compresses both the light and  
heavy springs.</p>
heavy springs.<br/>
<p>That&#39;s really all there is to it!&nbsp; Below you&#39;ll find various pictures of  
<br/>That&#39;s really all there is to it!&nbsp; Below you&#39;ll find various pictures of  
the assembly that will help out in building your own.&nbsp; If you&#39;ve got  
the assembly that will help out in building your own.&nbsp; If you&#39;ve got  
questions please feel free to join the
questions please feel free to join the


<a href="http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech">simpits-tech</a>  
<a href="http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech">simpits-tech</a>  
mailing list!</p>
mailing list!
<p>
<br/>
<img alt="Misc. Pictures" src="roll_axis_pushrod_and_center_interconnect-2.jpg"></p>
[[file:roll_axis_pushrod_and_center_interconnect-2.jpg]]<br/>
<p><img src="pitch_axis_pushrod_and_pot.jpg"></p>
<br/>
<p><img src="pitch_axis_pushrod_and_pot-2.jpg"></p>
[[file:pitch_axis_pushrod_and_pot.jpg]]<br/>
<p><img src="pitch_axis_bearing_detail.jpg"></p>
<br/>
<p><img src="pitch_axis_bearing_detail-2.jpg"></p>
[[file:pitch_axis_pushrod_and_pot-2.jpg]]<br/>
<p><img src="gimbal_box_detail.jpg"></p>
<br/>
<p><img src="roll_axis_pushrod_connection-2.jpg"></p>
[[file:pitch_axis_bearing_detail.jpg]]<br/>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<br/>
[[file:pitch_axis_bearing_detail-2.jpg]]<br/>
<br/>
[[file:gimbal_box_detail.jpg]]<br/>
<br/>
[[file:roll_axis_pushrod_connection-2.jpg]]<br/>
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